April 10, 2005

I arrived in Iran safe and sound!

The formalities at the airport were amazingly easy and quick. No papers to fill out and I cruised through customs.

Mohammed, the manager of the hotel where I am staying was there smiling with a sign saying, "Miss Daphne Roberts". Along his side, Hossein, Harvey, my boyfriend's Persian friend with a huge bouquet of roses and "marguerites". I felt like a movie star! A bouquet of red roses and a daisy like flower called marguerites or Paris daisies

I did not expect to see Hossein there as I had told him that I would contact him from the hotel. However, he wanted to make sure that I would be met at the airport. Very thoughtful of him. Tonight, he and his wife are inviting me to dinner.

The Khayyam hotel is perfect for me, safe, quiet and with a reasonable level of comfort even though it is located in a commercial, less affluent part of the city.

BACKGROUND INFO
Khayyam (1048 - 4 Dec 1131) was Born in Nishapur, Iran the provincial capital of Khurasan. Nishapur is located 115 kms. west of Mashhad. Not much is known about his family but there is speculation that his father's trade might have been "Tentmaker". Tentmaker is the literal translation of Khayyám. Omar even pokes fun at his nickname in his writing...

"Khayyám, who stitched the tents of science, has fallen in grief's furnace and been suddenly burned. The shears of Fate have cut the tent ropes of his life, and the broker of Hope has sold him for nothing!"
--Omar Khayyám

From movie poster of The Adventures of Omar Khayyam

After resting a bit, I went for a walk. I felt somewhat conspicuous ambling around with my undercoat and scarf flowing around. The temperature is hot but not too much. People here stare at me even though I could pass for Iranian. All the women here wear black, mid thigh length fashionable coats and mine is cream,long and shapeless. I shall remedy this situation tomorrow.

View of Iranian Women looking at political posters

I have so many new impressions that I feel sort of overwhelmed. I need some time to catch my breath!

All I can tell you is that my first impressions are excellent, even here in Tehran, this huge polluted metropolis. The people are absolutely charming and welcoming! Am getting used to wearing my islamic coat and scarf out in the public.

BACKGROUND INFO
Tehran: Covering an area of 1500 sq. kms, Tehran is situated in the north-central part of Iran, on the slope of the Alborz Mountain. As the national capital it is the most populated city in Iran and the center of cultural, economical, political and social activities. It is about 1200 meters above sea level and enjoys a mild climate. Although the word Tehran can be found even in some books dating back to the 10th century, it was but a village containing numerous gardens in the distant past.

I have been in Iran for a full five days. I have so much to share that I am at a loss where to start. Iran is probably the only country, in all my travels, that I had mixed feelings visiting. One fact is certain. The Western media present a wrong image of this peaceful, friendly nation. They portray it as being fanatical, dangerous and violent. Nothing is further from the truth.

Azadi Tower: One of the first monuments seen as visitors arrive in Tehran from the airport

Entrance to the national Park, the Bagh-e-Melli Gate

Young Iranians having fun

A typical scene of Iranian living

Since I have arrived, I have been welcomed with open arms and treated with the utmost respect. People are so attentive here. Intensely curious of foreigners. They approach you smiling, eager to practice the few words of English they know. If I stop in the streets to consult my map, someone always comes up wanting to be of assistance. The first question they invariably ask is where I am from. Many do not have a clear idea of where Canada is on this planet! The second is what I think of Iran. When I respond that I am enchanted with their country and its people, they put their hand to their heart, nod their head to the side in the most comical fashion and bow thanking me profusely. No wonder they are so friendly. Persian people have a long tradition of hospitality. They consider any visitor from abroad or from here as being sent by God and consequently they do their utmost to greet you very well.

The overall impression, here, is one of gentleness and tranquility. There is of course no music. People act and talk in a subdued way. Showing any outburst of any kind is contrary to the Islamic law. Everything is muted, even the colours. No contrasting hues. Everybody is dressed in neutral tones, except the children. Women, of course, wear the chador. (Find out how to make a chador.
Iranian Chador - Abaya style
My first errand was to shop for a suitable attire. I enjoyed myself immensely at the dress shop. Three Persian ladies attended me among much laughter and merriment. Taking their job very seriously, they fitted me with a superb dark blue overcoat, the latest in Islamic fashion, and matching scarf. The coat fortunately is of very light natural fabric. I am able to endure the current spring temperature of 25 degrees comfortably by wearing the bare minimum underneath: a spaghetti strap tee shirt and cotton trousers!

Being cloaked all day long out in the public eye is almost becoming second nature to me, like brushing my teeth. I even sometimes forget my scarf on my head in my hotel room. However, it is at first a strange feeling to be entirely covered from head to toe, with only your face and your hands showing. It feels like you have lost your body, your hair and all that makes you typically you; your physical image. You become another dark coloured bird, among many, in the flock of walking females in the streets.

People are not fooled even though I could pass easily for Iranian. I try to take my cue from the local women but my mannerisms betray me, as well as my day pack, shoes and camera! I feel perfectly at ease however, totally safe as I seem to meet nothing but kindness along the way.

Communicating is sometimes a challenge as everything is written in Arabic alphabet including numbers. It takes me an eternity to identify the characters in my glossary!

My first attempt at ordering a meal was a fiasco. I walked into a little restaurant greeted by smiles and many, "Salam alekums" (Hello in farsi). I looked around. The cook was sweating over his grill. Behind the glass many dishes of appetizing looking cooked food. I gestured to my mouth indicating that I wanted to eat. The cashier boy looked at me inquiringly.

Arabic Ice Cream

Get Ice Cream Recipe

I pointed at one of the dishes. He said "Kebab". Then I pointed to another that looked different, he said "kebab". My pointing to a third brought the same answer. It looked that I was going to be "kebabed out!" Finally, guessing my dilemna, the cashier boy drew my attention to another plate, saying "potato!" victoriously. I nodded my head. I was going to have kebab and potato. Why not? The price was a bit stiff $3.00 but what the heck, I was going to splurge.

I sat down, waiting for an assortment of kebabs accompanied by potatoes, while the cashier boy was flipping through my guide. Finally, the cook called him and he came back with... two dozen kebab sandwiches that would have been perfect for a giant picnic! I looked at him incredulously, nodding vigorously, "No", "no" , "no"!

How could we have had such a huge misunderstanding? I felt unable to gobble all that food. The poor cashier boy, embarrassed by his gaffe disappeared swiftly. The cook came to my rescue, relieved me of all the sandwiches except for one. Gave me back most of my money with an apologetic smile and offered on the house a rose water flavoured ice cream for dessert.

Am off to Esfahan tomorrow. Click to continue the journey...