May 21

Mixed greetings from Prague and the Czech Republic

For the last three days I have been in shock. I am still reeling from it. I am yearning for the tranquility of Iran and the privacy of my veil...Amazing but true. I was unprepared for this splendid city of Prague, plagued by mass tourism.

Let us start with the positive points. The weather is simply gorgeous; spring at its best. I am staying with my long time friend, Gary, who works here. He lives in a pretty residential area, far from the 'maddening crowds'.

Praga Caput Regni, meaning Prague, Capital of the Empire, is inscribed on their Coat of Arms. Since its beginnings, Prague has played an important role in the history of Czechoslovakia, now called the Czech Republic.

Prague Coat of Arms

A pot of red geraniums on a balony overlooking the city

One of the best moments of my day is when I wake up. My eyes open on to a lace-curtained old fashioned window, high and narrow, brightened by red geraniums. The sun is streaming through. I can hear the birds chirping. I can see foliage and buds against a pure sky and savour my strong, fragrant morning coffee while admiring the neoclassical building facing Gary's home.

And then the city itself. It lives up to its reputation and my expectations. A jewel, miraculously preserved despite the wars and conflicts of its tormented history. I feel like I am walking through a vast open air museum, still vibrant from a rich past. Prague is an architectural gem, combining many styles: romanesque, gothic, renaissance, baroque, rococo, neoclassical to name a few. Am enjoying recognizing them as I explore.

Street Cafe on a city Square in front of multiple building facades

A couple of horse drawn carriages wait in front of a city square. View shows a green with age copper spired building.

An example of modern design in this historical city

All the sights speak to me: the elegantly spired cathedrals and the churches resonanting with choir or organ music,

Very ornamental church that could be a castle

the cobbled squares, the ornamented palaces...

the fountains and ancient clocks...

Fountain in front of ornamental building

Singing fountain shown at night with lights sparkling through the water

Famous historical clock located in Prague's city center

Angel and wiseman statues on Astronomical clock

old stone bridges with blackened statues in supplicant postures looking up into the azur skies and the gold and green river lazily flowing across the city.

Prague Castle overlooking the bridges of the Vltava river

Albert Bridge with a sunny beach in the foreground

Many sounds remind me of my childhood, especially the chiming of church bells and the unique rattle of the trams so reminiscent of an older Europe. The scents also are typical: the fragrance of spring flowers , the aroma of coffee and the smell of pastries sold in the streets. The colours are a delight; I keep clicking my camera: from constrasting pastel hues to more subdued tones...
A lily called Prague Spring

View of two streetcars passing on busy city street

beiges, greys and ochras often softened by a "patina" of many years gone by.

I have been here for three days. I have "seen" the sights, scattered all over town. The sheer multitude of tourists has somewhat spoiled my pleasure. It is a human ocean constantly breaking loose in the streets, overflowing everywhere. Rarely have I felt such an invasion of my personal space. These holiday makers are from the four corners of the globe. The most visible and insufferable are groups of Bristish lads flown here on super cheap flights. You can see them getting drunk on local beer from early morning.

There is also a large expatriate community, mostly Americans easily identifiable by their laid back mannerisms. Locals must resent this new type of invasion of their territory even if it brings money. Czechs always look stern and in a hurry. However, despite allegations of xenophobia, up until now, they have not been unfriendly when I have asked for their help. However, few speak English and communicating can be a challenge.

Yesterday I decided to take the tram to visit the Castle on the other side of the river. It was 8am and the tram intersection was deserted. I knew I needed to buy a ticket before boarding but where?

I saw a couple of handsome looking Czech policemen standing nearby. Both would be perfect candidates for a Canadian hockey team. Boldly, I approached them.
"Excuse me, do you speak English?" One of them gave me a devastating look with his blue eyes and politely replied smiling.
"Inglish, ne, speak German,Russian, Slovak, Turkish." That was certainly impressive but not of much help to me!
I insisted, "Ticket, tram, where?" with an eloquent gesture of my hands.
The other blond Adonis suddenly saw the light! "Ticket, there, kiosk, trafika!" pointing at an tobacco store on the left that I had not noticed and looked opened.

So I have been playing a tiring game of hide and seek with the cohorts of tourists roaming around. Huge groups following their guide holding up a fanion in order not to get lost. The streets and squares are literaly thick with people. How many times, have I had to duck into a deserted alley or take the opposite direction or find shelter in a quiet park when claustrophobia became overwhelming.

Prague is unsurprinsingly a paradise for pickpockets. They must do excellent business especially at the time of the changing of the guards at the castle or when people gape at the astronomical clock chiming the hour in the old town square. Everything here is ridiculously expensive. Czechs even charge you to attend to your natural needs, a ridiculous 50 cents, enough to constipate you for the rest of your life! Changing money, cash or travellers cheques is a scam too! The commission can be as high as 7 percent. As to the taxi driver, they belong in majority to a corrupt breed and do not hesitaste to rob you joyously if you let them.

Prague, despite its old fashioned look is very americanized. This is the kingdom of fast food. Hamburgers, pizzas, hot dogs, fried chicken are being sold everywhere. Soft drinks flow freely as well as local beer. Real restaurants are hard to find. When you are lucky to come across them, they propose unappatizing food: meats, potatoes, dumplings that plaster your stomach and sauerkraut. Bon appetit...

Hamburgers, chicken and sausages for sale

Tourists enjoy a quick bite while on the go

So here are my first impressions. I am eager to go to the countryside where apparently the contact with people much poorer than in the capital is radically different.

Now on to the Jewish district...