May 2, but not really

Killing time in Tabriz

Just realized I had completely lost track of the date and day of the week. For some reason, being convinced that April had 31 days I thought today was the 1st! Good thing I was made aware of my mistake (for the first time

I saw a Christian calendar at the travel agency this morning!), otherwise I may have missed my flight back to Europe.

Now I am in Tabriz. Think I will stay here a couple of days and then fly back to Tehran (only 20 dollars!) and head three hours south of the capital to Kashan and the village of Abyane.

Map of Northern Iran showing Tabriz
Farsi Alphabet and Numbers All the numbers here are in Farsi alphabet. When I enter a restaurant, I am totally in the dark, completely blind. I can't read the menu or the prices. I am becoming expert at ordering food using my dictionary: the bill however always comes as a surprise, either astronomical by Iranian standards or ridiculously cheap.
Sometimes, the cook throws in a new dish as a bonus. The other day I had enough marinated garlic cloves to repulse the most stubborn vampire. Simply delicious. To cool off my palate, I was served afterwards thick plain home made yogourt!

I am getting the hang of things slowly. I have become a pro at crossing the streets. The traffic is truly maddeningly scary, here. Nobody pays heed to traffic lights, if there are any. Pedestrians zigzag between dashing vehicles that appear determined to charge you and make minced meat of you.

A smiling face in a restaurant/ tea house
The first days, I would remain on the curb, paralysed with fear while the locals would work their ways across like experienced bullfighters. Then I gathered enough courage to cross side by side with a Persian unaware that I was stalking him or her like a chick his mother! Now I am proud to say that I am able to handle any kind of busy intersection on my own.

Am stuck longer than planned in Tabriz, in Northwestern Iran. As I do not feel like facing a ten hour bus ride back to the capital. I have had the "brilliant" idea to fly again. Unfortunately all Iran Air flights are fully booked for the next few days. Instead, I am travelling with an obscure domestic airline called "Caspian Airways" tomorrow afternoon. My guide book says that airlines other than the national one are all consistent in their tardiness. Lack of punctuality does not mean that you do not get to your destination, right? So there is hope that I might get there some time in the evening and it might be another adventure anyway...

Overview of Tabriz city Outside view of the Blue(Kabood) Mosque
Tabriz is a big, noisy, tentacular city. Few travellers stop here. I can tell by the way, people stare at me... Also, for some unknown reason, it is possible to change money only in the morning and in one kind of bank! Today, I exhausted most of the sights, among them the Blue Mosque. The streets by the bazaar (which boasts 35 kilometers of alleys!) were overflowing with so many people that I did not have the heart to enter the market area!

Yesterday I sat by the side of a pedestrian street to people watch. It was 5 in the evening, the time when everything comes alive again.

Reflecting on women's fashion...

The Vakil Bazaar in Tabriz
Suddenly, the absurdity of the local dress code struck me for the first time full in the face. All these women, young and old, cloaked in black with only part of their faces showing. Many in groups were lingering in front of shops which displayed frilly lingerie, silk black embroidered tights, colourful dresses, suggestive tops, smart shoes, and so on.
Mannequin without hair Everything they are welcomed to buy but can only wear in the privacy of their homes in front of husbands, brothers or close male relatives. In Iran, clothes are displayed on life size mannequins. It took me a while to figure out why the female dummies had the top half of their skulls decapitated; simply because it is taboo to show hair, even made of wax!
Women here give me the impression that they do not want foreigners to "pity" them and often they downplay some of the inconveniences they are submitted to. Some regular visitors to Iran have told me in confidence that women found guilty of adultery are still stoned to death: even when they are the victims of rape. Persian women are allowed to work, study, vote and own property. However, in the case of a legal dispute, the value of their testimony is half that of a man. When they divorce, they are left with nothing. The money, the house and the custody of the children go to the husband. Many young girls and women I talk to claim that they like the "hedjab" (the veil) because it makes them feel secure. Most have never known anything different. Some feel it is right to make themselves beautiful only for their husbands. I can hear the cries from all of you feminists!
The rationale behind the hedjab is not to excite men in any way. As some youngsters have rightly told me, such an idea denotes a total lack of respect towards Persian men who are portrayed as wild beasts ready to pounce on any women improperly clad. According to them it also casts women in the role of temptresses; an idea far from being new. Many young people here are not afraid to tell you that it is not a good idea to mix religion and politics! Young men often opine that women should have the choice to cover themselves or not. A very mature view if they are really truthful about what they say!

The Mullahs, Islamic clerics, are a common sight everywhere. Thank god they do not have as much punitive power as before. They always look at me disdainfully, as no doubt a perfect product of Western decadence. I stay away from them. They are often old, decrepit, with chubby faces under bushy beards, a turbaned head, long flowing robes and heavily ringed fingers!

Sour Looking Islamic cleric
A Persian Tale

King Abbas...Realm of Loyalty

Once upon a time, as many years ago as there are stars in the night sky, in the Ancient kingdom of Persia lived a monarch by the name of Abbas. He was a powerful but just king who always had the welfare of his subjects at heart. His best friend was the great priest of the fire temple. His name was Mohammed Reza. He, too, was a good man, well respected and revered as a highly enlightened sage. Both men shared the same sorrow. Their wives, after a few years of marriage, had remained barren. Despite many pressures, they had refused to divorce them to wed another because they truly were in love.
Then, one day (the same day!) a great happiness befell them; their spouses became pregnant. Abbas and Mohammed Reza both rejoiced loudly for three nights and three days and then waited impatiently for the coming of their first offspring!! The babies were born on the same day, at exactly the same time, 4pm GMT. Both mothers, laying side by side, panting and screaming, mingled their cries. Finally the infants appeared, a boy and a girl, both surprinsingly beautiful and vigorous.

The best oracles were summoned by King Abbas. Their white heads leaned over the cradles, they predicted that each child would have their destiny irremediably entwined with that of the other. The parents delighted at the news held a great banquet with music, dancing and sweet heady wine overflowing for everybody in the kingdom from the richest to the most humble. The boy was named Farid and the girl Maryam. Both children grew up together, playing side by side like brother and sister. They were gifted in everything they did. Everybody adored them for they had good hearts and not an ounce of vanity or arrogance despite the brilliance of their births.

The children turned into adolescents. Farid, a handsome youngster, excelled in all martial sports and showed an insatiable curiosity. He had dreams of seeing the whole world, of crossing mighty seas and roaming parched deserts. He wanted to find the land of the Golden Horn, the land of plenty with trees laden with fruit, lakes teeming with fishes and people living simply but happily. Maryam was more sedate. She enjoyed her studies as well as all the arts taught by the finest teachers: dancing, singing, reciting poetry, weaving and mosaic painting. She had realized early that she loved Farid more than anything in the world and that she wanted to be his wife and bear his children.

For both families, it was tacitly understood that Farid and Maryam would be wed when they came of age. Consequently, King Abbas was greatly surprised when his beloved son announced one day that his mind was made up and that he was going to see the world.

Beautiful young Persian Girl
Everybody tried to make him see reason: his father, his mother, the great priest Mohammed Reza, the oracles, even the keeper of the Royal Stables, but to no avail. Farid was adamant. He had to see the world and was not ready to succeed his father to the throne or to marry, even though he loved Maryam dearly.

Maryam was inconsolable. She cried torrents of tears. The farewells were poignantly sad. Farid felt secretly guilty but had no choice but to answer the call of adventure. The oracles told Maryam that she had to let him go to quench the thirst for travel inside him. She could not clip his wings; he was like a bird yearning to be free. He would come back some day to wed her according to the predictions. Maryam, sobbing like the fountain of eternal water, ran all the way up to the highest turret of her father's castle where she locked herself to live as a recluse.

Farid with Caravan Farid, joined a caravan of spice merchants heading as far East as one can go on camel back. Then he boarded a great vessel. After many days he reached a strange land that, the legend said, had been formed by the anger of a mighty dragon. All the people there had strangely shaped eyes. The men wore a long tail on their backs. The women, dainty and graceful like porcelain dolls, looked like colorful butterflies in their shiny silk robes. Farid, unsure that he had reached the land of the Golden Horn, remained there 4 years.
Though he nearly married one of those porcelain dolls, Farid came to his senses at the last minute, remembering Maryam who had promised to wait for him and decided that maybe it was time to head back.

In the meantime, Maryam had remained locked in her tower. She would not see or talk to anyone. Her meals brought to her would only be half eaten. Her parents and King Abbas, truly worried, resolved to introduce her to well born and wealthy young men, afraid that she would die of sorrow. Maryam would have none of it, even though portraits of handsome youngsters were put under her door. Instead, she asked for wool, lots of wool because she was going to weave a carpet until the return of her beloved. Her family, unwilling to cross her, provided her with threads of every imaginable thickness and shade.

The royal trumpets were sounded triumphantly when Farid's caravan appeared! Maryam nearly broke her pretty neck running down the stairs, a half finished carpet in her hand. Everybody cheered. The king threw another party as grand and as joyful as the one for the birth of his son and thought contentedly that a wedding would occur soon and that Maryam would be made queen. The unfortunate monarch could not be more wrong. Farid was not coming back. He was just passing through to see Maryam and his family, still searching for the land of the Golden Horn.

Abbas, the proud king, shed tears, got on his knees and pleaded with his son to stay. Soon he would be gone to the land of the dead and the kingdom would need a new ruler. Farid, greatly chagrined by the sorrow of the whole kingdom, remained inflexible, however. He had to go to the other side of the world as far west as he could to see if he could find the country of the Golden Horn. He was prisoner of an obsessive dream and had to make it come true in order to find peace. Maryam's reaction, as you can imagine, was frightening. This time she shed oceans of tears, pulled her lustrous black hair and scratched her ivory cheeks in despair. She ran back up to the top of her tower and asked for more wool.

So Farid left again. This time he sailed across many expanses of turbulent waters until he reached a land of ice, snow and giant forests. There people's hair shined like copper or gold, their eyes had the colour of the Caspian sea and they wore furs on their sturdy bodies. "Was that the land of the Golden Horn?" wondered Farid. He stayed three years and then came to the conclusion that indeed he had reached the land of plenty.

Wait a minute! Remember what the oracles had said about Maryam and Farid having their destinies entwined together?

Sailing Away
Furthermore, Maryam, every minute of the day, in her tower while she was finishing her carpet had been praying for a miracle that would bring back her fiance once and for all. Farid was not meant to remain in the land of plenty. The laws in that county of ice and giant forests were very strict. A great trial took place and it was decided by an all powerful judge that Farid would have to be sent back to Persia.
Celebration When Farid returned, the whole kingdom danced, sang and was merry for a whole week. Abbas, the old king having just died, everybody was longing for a new monarch and Farid's sudden return was the answer to their problem. Maryam dashed down the stairs, her carpet completely finished in her hand! Even though she now had a few touches of grey in her lustrous hair, she was as pretty as ever. She was looking at Farid with luminous green eyes brimming with happiness. Farid had mixed feelings: he was sad at the demise of his father but at the same time he felt pleased for making everybody happy.
King Farid and Princess Maryam were wed in great pomp. They were kind and just rulers of the Kingdom of Persia. They had many children and lived happily everafter.
Epilogue
This tale is the story of real people, Mahnaz and Hossein. I took liberties, put a few touches of humor to alleviate the sadness and gave it an happy ending even though the story to this day is unfinished. Mahnaz and Hossein met when they were very young. First they were friends and then became romantically involved. Mahnaz was eager to marry but Hossein wanted to see the world. Hossein left and Mahnaz who was very much in love decided that she would never be able to wed another and would wait for his return. Hossein went to Japan, then came back for a few months to go away again first to Europe and then to Canada. He fell in love with Vancouver, lived and worked there for 3 years, applied for refugee status but was denied permanent residence and had to go back to Iran. All this time, Mahnaz had been waiting for Hossein, a total of 20 years. They eventually married 4 years ago. They are now both nearing middle age and Maryam is especially sorry that they may now never have children. I wish them all the happiness in the world because they are both lovely people.

Click to continue the journey...