June 14, 2005

Krakow, the pearl of Poland

Some say that if you have time to see only one place in this country, you should not miss Krakow. Krakow, the old medieval city deserves this reputation. It is supposedly renowned far beyond the gates of Europe. A Hindu legend says that Shiva himself threw seven magic gems over seven regions of the world. Krakow being one of these spots. The exact location is the northwestern corner of the Castle grounds. So Krakow, like some other great mystic cities such as Jerusalem, Rome, Delhi or Mecca is supposed to be one of the sacred spots on earth. Despite the fact that it abounds in churches, I myself have not felt that it radiates any excess of spiritual energy! However, its quaint old time charm is evident everywhere.

Hindu God Shiva shown in sitting position

The central square called Rynek Glowny is unique. It is covered with pigeons and flower stalls. It boasts a 16th century two storey cloth hall, a magnificently festooned Renaissance construction. On each side of the hall, an open arched gallery. When I arrived there on Sunday morning, it was drizzling. Under one of the arches, a young Polish woman dressed in a flowing robe was playing on the violin a stream of nostalgic notes punctuating the musical pattering of the rain.

Then I went to look at the very ancient St Mary's Church. Like all the churches I entered that day, it was overflowing with people. Some were even praying on the steps and pavement. St Mary is one of the wonders of Poland. Inside it is long and narrow, with a gracefully vaulted ceiling painted a luminous turquoise blue studded with gold stars. Above the altar, two long arched windows entirely covered with small squares of exquisitely designed glass windows. The center piece of the altar is remarkable: a vast box with an open panel on each side, of the same velvety turquoise as the ceiling, adorned

Inside St Mary's Church looking up at the ceiling

with the most intricately carved gold statuary of the purest Gothic style. All around elegant arches and pillars in blending tones of dark red, orange, yellow and beige enhanced by lines and motifs of gold and turquoise. Just amazing.

I should mention the story behind St Mary's chime that you hear on the hour. The melody is most uncommon: a series of trumpet notes that ends abruptly, apparently to commemorate the fact that a Middle Ages trumpeter had his throat pierced by an enemy arrow while playing it.

Krakow is literally peppered with cloisters, chapels and churches, most of them dating from the 14th century.

I enjoyed strolling around, visiting the ones mentionned in my guide book. One I found particularly eye-catching was the Corpus Christi church, absolutely crammed with Gothic paintings and guilded adornements. Almost like a high class Antique shop or the cave of Ali Baba!

I walked up to the castle. I was not especially impressed by it. I preferred by far the nearby Cathedral with its golden dome chapel. The streets of Krakow are buzzing with life.

Example of a Gothic Painting by Gentile da Fabriano called Three Kings Bow, 1423

Many kiosks selling pretzel. Lots of nuns walk around along with the tourists and the Kralow...ites? Plenty of street entertainers of the silent type. They just stand at corners perfectly still, to the great delight of the school kids on fieldtrips. I even saw an executioner, entirely clad in black with hood and ax. Rather morbid, no?

Mom and child getting their pretzels from street cart

Tomorrow hopefully, I will reach Slovakia before dusk. I was going to take the train but it leaves at 11pm and reaches my destination at 4 am. As I wrote before, international travel by train at night is extremely dangerous. So not wanting to risk it, I will head to the Tatra mountains, take a series of buses and minibuses and cross the border by foot... with my backpack on wheels.

Wish me luck and an adventurous journey.

On to Slovakia...